New Orleans has Mardi Gras, Rio de Janeiro has Carnavale, but Detroiters celebrate Paczki Day the day before the first day of Lent, which is Feb. 21 this year. Pronounced “POONCH-key,” paczki are Polish-style jelly or custard-filled donuts. Ask any die-hard paczki lover, and they’ll say the only place to get the best paczki in the Detroit area is in Hamtramck.
Suzy Ognanovich, whose family has owned the 101-year-old New Palace Bakery for the past 41 years, talks about the tradition behind this popular deep-fried pastry.
How long has Paczki Day been a tradition in Hamtramck?
It’s been popular as long as our family has owned the bakery. It ties in with the Polish-Catholic tradition of cleaning out the cupboards and indulging the day before Lent.
How early do you start preparing for Paczki Day?
We start when we close on Monday night because we have to let the dough rise. We make them fresh because we don’t have the room to store or refrigerate them — not that we would do that. We open at 3 am.
How do your paczki differ from those sold in grocery stores?
It’s an old-fashioned recipe that’s made from scratch; not from a mix. For Paczki Day, we use a special recipe that uses extra eggs and has a richer, spongier texture. We also cook our own custard for the filling.
What other fillings do you have?
There’s raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, lemon, plum, apple, apricot and plain with no filling. We also make special fillings.
How many paczki do you make for Paczki Day?
I have no idea. The bakers keep making them as the customers come in and our whole family pitches in. It’s all hands on deck.
How many calories are in a paczek (singular of paczki, pronounced POON-check)?
I really don’t know. (According to Peter McCullough, M.D., medical director of the Beaumont Weight Control Center, “A typical five ounce paczki contains about 420 calories, 25 or more grams of fat, and is loaded with refined carbohydrates which are directly converted into fat.”) But on Paczki Day, who cares?
Coming from a 100% Polish paczki lover, the pilgrimage to Hamtramck is worth it.
New Palace Bakery is located at 9833 Jos. Campau in Hamtramck.
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